Khtzkonk / Beşkilise Monastery

Hidden among the cliffs of a remote ravine in the far eastern province of Kars near the Armenian border are the lonely remains of a medieval monastic complex. Known as Khtzkonk to its Armenian Christian founders the complex is locally known by its Turkish name of Beşkilise, meaning Five Churches, though only one church is left standing today.

As with many of the sites in this historically troubled region, the history and origin of Beşkilise Monastery is somewhat murky. With most of the complex completely destroyed it’s difficult to know exactly when the monastery was first established here though it’s believed that it was established around 1033 at the latest according to one of the few remaining inscriptions.

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Beşkilise Monastery was built on a set of three narrow promontories jutting out of the side of the canyon’s steep banks a few kilometres from the old Armenian village of Tekor (now known as Digor). Three churches stood on the outcropping where the Church of St Sargis still stands today, one on the outcropping next to it, and the fifth church a short distance away where the ruined remains can still be seen easily. Among these were lesser buildings: cook houses, monks cells, etc., though these too have been lost. (There is also a a sort of platform built above the ruins of the most Eastward structure with large flat paver stones made visible by treasure hunters, though there is no mention of this spot in any of the sources I’ve read.)

While little is known about the history of Khtzkonk Monastery it was likely abandoned following the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. We know that the monastery was again in use during the 19th century when the region came under Imperial Russian control. It was again abandoned in the 1920’s when the territory was regained by the Turks.

Despite the fact that Khtzkonk Monastery was built in a region of near constant conflict the monastic complex was most grievously damaged rather recently in peacetime. Old photographs show the complex intact and, according to most sources, Beşkilise complex was blown up intentionally by Turkish forces in the 1950’s during a period of soaring tensions between Turkey and Armenia. Four churches and the lesser buildings were completely wiped out and the Church of St. Sargis was badly damaged. Treasure hunters continue to do damage to the site and remains can be found over a wide area.