Surp Marinos Monastery
Surp Marinos Manıstırı
/ By Josh
Cost: Free
Great for: Armenian History, Armenian Churches, Vaspurakan, Church Architecture, Lovers of Lonely Places
The Gürpınar Valley, once known as the Hayots Dzor, or Valley of the Armenians, is a fertile swath of land stretching east from the shores of Lake Van into the rugged hills. The valley is an important locale in the legendary history of the Armenian peoples, according to which Hayk, the legendary founder of the Armenians came to this valley and built the Haykaberd (the ancient fortress now referred to as Çavuştepe) and defeated Bel the Babylonian invader.
Despite the importance of this area, there seems to be little left of the Armenian presence. One exception is the Surp Marinos monastery, an unusual complex about which little is known. The date of its founding is unknown though there is record of the monastery from the 16th century. Alternatively, the monastery was also referred to as Srkhouvank and was home to some 300 nuns.
Making it difficult to learn more about the specifics of the complex is the fact that its construction is quite crude and almost completely lacking in ornamentation and inscriptions. The masonry is predominantly of uncut flat stones with mud used as mortar. Despite the rough masonry the church follows the design of other grander churches in the area with a cone-topped drum set atop a tall and narrow nave. Historic photographs show that the drum was once octagonal, though decay has made this difficult to tell. Apart from the church itself there were a number of other buildings enclosed by a high enclosing wall built in a similar manner to the rest of the complex apart from a small section of herringbone masonry.
The church is named for St Marinos/Marina, a woman who lived as a man so as to live as a monk in what is now Lebanon. She was accused of having raped a local village woman and, as she did not defend herself, she lived as a beggar and took care of the child. After some time, she was again accepted to live in a monastery as a monk but was required to do hard labour as punishment for her crime. It was only after she had died that it was discovered she was a woman and therefore innocent.
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Due to its long abandonment, poor quality masonry, and the damage of misguided looters, the monastery of Surp Marinos is in a state of considerable decay. In fact, photos from 1969 show that much of the damage has come about in the last few decades. With large cracks and bulges in walls, missing cap stones, undermined corners, and no government protection, it can only be assumed that the destruction will continue in the years to come.
How To Get There
Public Transport
The main road running through the valley below the monastery is easy to access by public transit, and though the walk from there to the monastery is steep it is a pleasant and quiet place to walk through. Taking the Dolmuş from Van to Gürpınar get out at the village of Aşağıkaymaz. From here walk through the village, and looking up into the hills above you should be able to see the monastery in a cleft.
Car
By car drive south from Van along the inland Van-Hakkari highway (D975) turning right (west) where it meets the Bitlis-Hakkari Highway (D975 again). 7 kms down the road you will see the monastery above; turn right (north) into the village of Aşağıkaymaz (first village just after the milatary base). Getting throug the village and onto the right road may take a couple of tries but as the roads are unmarked we can’t give clearer directions than this. The road is rough and leads near, but not directly to the monastery. Park your car wherever is safe (or the road becomes too difficult) and make the remaining hike by foot.
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Where To Stay
There is nothing in the immediate area so you will need to find lodging in Edremit where you will find many of the nicer lakeside hotels or in Van itself which is home to hotels ranging from cheap dives to comfortable 4-star hotels.
Other Tips
Planning on visiting Surp Marinos Monastery? Make sure to check out our guides to dozens of other Armenian churches and monasteries in the region or our guides to the many other historical sights of Van Province!
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Have any tips or info to add? Spot any mistakes? We’d love to hear about it.